Events & Outings

These essentials should be carried on every outing. All of the essentials (except for the garbage bag, water bottle, and extra clothing), should fit into a small ditty bag (about the size of a grapefruit).

1. Navigation:
   • Maps – if not provided by the troop, a USGS 1:24,000 scale of the area you are hiking
   • Compass with adjustable declination – Don’t be tempted to purchase a super cheap one; a good compass will last a long time. Sighting mirrors are usually unnecessary.
2. Sun Protection:
   • Sunscreen – repackaged in a small dropper bottle (an eye dropper bottle or similar).
   • Sunglasses – absolutely necessary. Go light and cheap. Fashion is not an issue, there is no one out there to impress.
3. Insulation: extra clothing. you will not need more than what you’re wearing and the warmer insulation layers that you will be carrying. Think of clothing as: one set for hiking; and one set for camp. For day hikes, adjust accordingly (that is, bring less).
4. Illumination: LED headlamp/flashlight. With headlamps/flashlights, the smaller and lighter, the better. A LED headlamp (hands-free and easy) that won’t turn on easily inside a pack. Do not pack extra batteries – LEDs last a long time and have long battery life. If the batteries are old or you are going on an extended outing, put fresh batteries in before a trip and skip carrying extras.
5. First Aid Supplies: Everything together should weigh no more than 5 ounces, in one small Ziploc. You should know how to use what you are carrying and what nature provides to augment their small kit. To plan for every possible emergency, one would need to bring an entire emergency room. Knowledge is the most important thing we carry.
   • A few Band-Aids in various sizes
   • 2 to 4 butterfly bandages or Steri-strips
   • 4-6 acetaminophen/ibuprofen
   • 2-4 Immodium
   • 2 3×3 or 4×4 gauze pads
   • a small piece of moleskin and a small amount of medical tape, rolled on to a piece of plastic straw
   • Prescribed Medications: An outing is not the time to “see how it goes” and stop taking necessary medications.
6. Fire:
   • Matches – a small amount of regular matches in a Ziploc is enough to start a fire.
   • Lighter – Mini Bic only.
   • Firestarter – a must, but the best are homemade.
     • Cotton balls coated in Vaseline, carried in an old film canister. Half of a cotton ball will burn for 3-5 minutes.
     • Dryer lint works great and is the cheapest, with an unlimited supply. Carry a few loads’ worth in a Ziploc.
     • The only commercial products I’ve found worth the money are WetFire and Spark-Lite & TinderQuik Tabs. NO: Magnesium fire-starting tools. They burn at 5,400F, but only for about two seconds, and they ruin knife blades.
   • Flint-Stick / Ferrocerium Rod – they come in all sizes and are great if you know how to use them, but they are not worth much if you don’t know how to work one. IF you purchase one, buy the lightest available and practice at home before bringing it.
   • Waterproof container- All fire stuff should be put in a lightweight waterproof container, like a Ziploc bag. NO: The small orange container with the compass on top is worthless. They are heavy for what you get, the compass is inaccurate, and I dare you to try and light a match with the flint thing on the bottom – don’t get suckered into buying these kinds of useless items.
7. Repair Kit and Tools:
   • Knife – with knives, like flashlights, smaller and lighter IS better. There is no need for a fixed blade (straight) knife that requires a sheath. The Victorinox Swiss Army Knife “Classic” model (the little one) is a good choice as it only weighs 0.7 ounce, and it has a scissor. A single-blade pocket knife that weighs less then 2 ounces is more than adequate. NO: multi-bladed/multi-gadget knives or multi-tools (e.g., a Leatherman). Unnecessary for Scouts or adults and very heavy to boot.
   • Repair Kit –
     • 2 to 3 feet of duct tape, rolled on a shortened plastic straw.
     • Small sewing needle with an eye big enough to accept your dental floss. Stick it into/thru a cut down business card or a small piece of foam to protect the tip.
     • A couple of safety pins.
     • About 20 to 25 feet of para-cord.
8. Nutrition: extra food – one protein bar (or similar). You are rarely so far off the beaten trail to need more than this.
9. Hydration:
   • Water bottle – The “standard” 1-liter Nalgene weighs 3.8 ounces, and a cleaned 1-liter water or pop bottle weighs 1.3 ounces. Skip the Nalgene. A wide mouth 1-quart Gatorade bottle is a good alternative. For most of your hiking trips you will not need to carry more than 1 liter of water at a time, but you may need containers that are large enough to hold 2 liters of water or more for some outings. Choose a collapsible 2-liter bottle – they are very light and can be rolled up when not in use. Refrain from bringing “Camelbak” style water systems. They are heavy, difficult to refill, subject to punctures and often result in you carrying too much water weight.
   • Water purification – AquaMira or Potable Aqua Water Purification Tablets work well and the two part system improves the water taste.  NO: Pump systems. They are too heavy and are prone to break.
10. Emergency Shelter: A large, heavy-duty (~3 mil.) garbage bag, 33 gallon or bigger. These work for a number of things, including an emergency shelter or rain coat. Always have one in your pack.
11. Whistle: Get a good plastic one. The whistles that come on a pack’s sternum strap aren’t worth much more than playing a one-note song; they are just not loud enough to be of any value. Get a “real” light plastic whistle, most outdoor or boating stores have them.

Three important things to consider when looking for a pack are:

1. Size – Packs are sized to correspond to a person’s torso size, and vary from one manufacturer to another. Though there is no true standard in pack sizing, at least some effort is made to follow torso sizing, so having that accurately measured is important. You can go online for instructions; REI has good videos on how to measure for a pack. Pack sizes can range from XS to XL, depending on the manufacturer.
2. Weight – The weight of an empty pack is very important. You should not need nor purchase a pack weighing more than 3.5 – 5 pounds. Some Scouts carry excellent packs that weigh under 2 pounds. You might not find them at the big box retailers; you might need to do some research, but they exist and are worth the effort to find.
3. Volume – If you have pared down your equipment, you won’t need a large pack. A small volume pack will also encourage your Scout to bring less, saving weight. Optimum volume would be between 3600 cubic inches (59 liters) and 4000 cubic inches (65 liters). You should not look at anything larger than a 4600 cubic inches (~75 liters). There is no need for anything larger, even in winter. Again, it is best to get most of your Scout’s other gear before you purchase a pack, because the volume needed will be dictated by the size of the gear to fit in the pack. Don’t purchase a pack with such a small volume that you must strap or dangle things from it.  Everything should fit inside the pack with the exception of maybe camp shoes and a sleeping pad.

Sleeping bags can be a difficult purchase. Temperature ratings are usually set arbitrarily by the manufacturer, so take temperature ratings with a grain of salt. Low quality bags abound, but the manufacturers of these often overstate their temperature rating. High quality bags can be very expensive, but are usually more accurate with temperature ratings. Temperature rating is simply a starting point, and how it applies to you and if you are a warm or cold sleeper and the circumstances you will most likely encounter on overnight trips.

The next issue with sleeping bags is whether the filling or insulation should be down or synthetic. Some people think that you shouldn’t use a down bag in wet weather; or that synthetic is warmer when wet. Troop’s standpoint: you NEVER want to sleep in any kind of wet bag, down or synthetic! You should work to keep your bag dry at all cost, which largely eliminates moisture as a factor in this debate.

Now, cost and how well you maintain your equipment are factors – big factors! A good down bag costs a lot more than a synthetic bag, and while down is lighter, it is also more fragile. It’s your call (and money).

Make sure that, whatever type of bag you have, when in your pack, it should be in a tight plastic bag (plastic trash compactor bags work best), for moisture protection. At the very least, stuff the sleeping bag in its own stuff sack that’s been lined with a plastic bag (plastic on the inside).

There are three basic types of sleeping pads and each has their own merits (below). Pad lengths range from a short, torso size to a full length 6’8” size. Why, you might ask, would someone want only a torso-sized pad? To save weight! You can put your empty pack under your legs for insulation. Why carry more than you need to? This works for both Scouts and adults, and they are totally comfortable while sleeping and on the trail (carrying less weight). A 5-foot Scout doesn’t need a 6.5-foot sleeping pad.

1. Closed Cell Foam (CCF) – CCF is by far the lightest and cheapest way to go, and it is what most of the Scouts carry. CCF pads are not subject to punctures like the other pad options, making these a no-brainer to recommend. CCF is easy to trim to your size or shape. Because sleeping pads often get strapped to the outside of the pack, a CCF pad can take a lot more abuse then those listed below without affecting its performance. Consider a CCF as a your first choice.
2. Self Inflatable – Many manufacturers, colors, sizes, shapes, weights, etc. Try to stay under 1.5 pounds! If you are looking to go this direction, remember that thicker is heavier. Carrying a 4-pound pad is not worth it; there are other options for comfort. Keep reading.
3. Inflatable / Air Mattress – Today there are a number of options in this area, but they mostly fall into two categories: Insulated and Non-Insulated.
   • Non-Insulated Inflatable Pads – Without insulation, these pads are vulnerable to convection and radiation heat loss. Take care if choosing them, because that heat loss can be a liability, even in summer.
   • Insulated Inflatable Pads – Insulated air pads can be the most comfortable way to go. That comfort comes at a higher price, the need for TLC, and the need to actually blow them up. Insulated inflatable pads have down or synthetic fill or a “reflective barrier.” Insulated inflatable pads are more costly and more fragile.

Ground Sheet – If sleeping under the stars (cowboy camping), having something to protect your sleeping bag from getting dirty is a good thing. A 7 x 3 foot piece of 3 to 4 mil plastic is all that is needed. You could also cut down the sides of a heavy duty, super large plastic garbage bag. A sheet of Tyvek works very well if you have access to that, though it will be noisy the first few times you use it. A ground sheet is also necessary for tarp camping.

Kitchen

Utensils – At most, all your Scout needs is a cup (cheap plastic ones work great), a Lexan (unbreakable plastic) or titanium (pricier metal option) long-handled spoon, and maybe a bowl (a used margarine tub), but nix the bowl if they are freezer bag cooking. NO: Mess kits. A mass of wasted metal, they are not worth the weight.

Soap – People have far more digestive problems in the backcountry from lack of personal hygiene then any water borne illness. It is recommend to bring a natural, liquid soap like Dr. Bronner’s, repackaged into a small dropper bottle. A purse-sized hand sanitizer can be brought along as well, but soap is more effective.

Personal

Toothbrush – A small, light toothbrush, stored in a Ziploc sandwich bag.

Toothpaste – A travel size is more than a Scout will use in a year, but repackaging is not really an option.

Small trowel – For digging a cathole, though a stick or tent peg works just as well and is one fewer item to pack. If the trowel weighs more than 2.5 ounces, don’t bring it. Use a stick.

Toilet paper – Don’t send the whole roll! About 6 to 8 feet should be far more than needed for an overnighter. Fold it up and put it in a Ziploc.

The great thing about backpacking meals is they can be as simple or as complex as you like.  Extremely cheap or top-shelf expensive. Ultra light-weight or as heavy as the kitchen sink… Getting the picture? You have a lot of choices and a lot of flexibility when backpack cooking.

There are two widely accepted methods within Troop 279, including pre-packaged meals and freezer bag cooking.  Both have key benefits, including:

• • Quick and tasty (individual personalized single servings)
  • Requires very little equipment to eat and consume
  • Easy to clean up (seal the bag and carry out)
  • Lightweight (water is usually filtered/purified at the campsite, so less weight)

 

Pre-Packaged Meals

• Required equipment & cooking instructions:
  • Spoon/Spork – If you can eat with just a spoon, it is recommended to avoid utensils with pointed/sharp edges, to minimize the risk of poking a hole in your bag. Also, the longer your spoon, the better. Having a long-handled spoon will keep your hands from getting messing when dipping into your bag.
  • Stove – The options for stoves are endless and prices can range widely. But if you don’t have a stove, don’t worry. Maybe you can borrow your buddy’s stove (you can offer to carry the fuel to split the load).
  • Pot/Cup – Any simple metal (single-walled) container will do, preferably with a lid to help warm your water faster.
  • Cozy (optional) – a cozy is just an insulated bag to help keep your food warmer, longer. They can be store bought or home-made.
  • Cooking Instructions:
    1. Add boiling water
    2. Place in package in a cozy (optional),
    3. Wait 5-10 minutes
  • Only clean-up is licking you spoon clean!

• Meal Selections

 

Freezer Bag Cooking

• Required equipment & cooking instructions:
  • Same as pre-packaged meals, with the addition of one item:
    • Freezer bag(s) (1 quart, name brand) – Others will burst spilling hot water and ruining your meal.
  • Cooking Instructions:
    1. Add ingredient to your freezer bag
    2. Add boiling water
    3. Mix in protein
    4. Place in bag in a cozy (optional),
    5. Wait 5-10 minutes
  • Only clean-up is licking you spoon clean!

•  Dinner
  • Starch/carbohydrate options:
    • Ramen noodles (break up before adding water to make it easier to eat)
    • Easy Mac (microwavable pre-cooked noodles, remove from bowls)
    • Stove Top stuffing (add chicken and dehydrated cranberries)
    • Minute Rice (add protein or cooked & dehydrated beans/veggies)
    • Instant mashed potatoes (use the pouches that only require water)
    • Pasta or Couscous (avoid boiling noodles since it takes more fuel)

• • Proteins to add to your starch/carbohydrates:
    • Pouches of tuna, salmon chicken or SPAM
    • Bacon bits (not the processed hard bits, the real bits in a pouch near salad dressings)
    • Nuts (cashews, peanuts, walnuts, peanut butter)
    • Protein powder (pea powder, dehydrated cooked beans, or whey-based)

•  Breakfast
  • A hot breakfast can help get you going! Options include:
    • Instant Oatmeal (add nuts, dried fruit, powdered milk)
    • Instant grits (can add powdered cheese, bacon bits)
    • Instnat cream of wheat (can add sugar)
  • Granola bar or breakfast bars
  • Dried fruit (banana chips, dried apples, etc.)

• Trail Lunch
  • Ideally quick and easy so not cooking required
  • Wraps don’t squish like sandwich bread
  • Luncheon meats and cheese lettuce and tomato
  • Cliff Bar / energy bars
  • Pepperoni, tuna pouch, span pouch, nuts or peanut butter
  • Sides: dried fruit, veggies, trail mix

Please Note:

• Be aware of nut allergies, lactose intolerance and vegetarian limitations
• Luncheon meat and cheese needs refrigeration but could be used on first day
• sealed Slim Jims, Beef Jerky and shelf-stabilized cheese do not need refrigeration